What Acids Should I Use on My Face for Healthy Skin?

Ah, acids in skincare: the wild west! If you've spent any amount of time wandering the aisles at a beauty store or even scrolling down the skincare section on your favourite online shopping site, then names like hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, and ascorbic acid must get thrown around.

They all promise glowing, youthful skin, but how do you know which one to pick? Should you go ahead and slather them all on, or would that just guarantee a "face meltdown"?

There's a lot of confusion around the acid overload in skincare. Let's break it down: what do these acids do, and what skin types do they work best with?

Hyaluronic Acid

Let's get started with some of the most popular, and thank goodness, the gentlest acids in the skincare world and that's hyaluronic acid. This bad boy is like your skin's very own hydration superhero-coming to save your face from dryness and dehydration.

What It Does:

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, it draws moisture into the skin. It is like a sponge that hangs onto water and keeps your skin plump and hydrated. Imagine every time you use it, your skin takes a big gulp of water.

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)

Moving on to ascorbic acid, commonly known as Vitamin C, this is the ultimate brightening agent and will definitely be necessary if you want that radiant complexion.

What It Does:

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that saves the skin from free radicals-these bad guys responsible for skin aging and other types of skin damage.

It's also well known for giving a boost to the rate of collagen production, for making dark spots fade, and evening out skin tone. In sum, it's like sunshine in a bottle-no UV rays included.

Glycolic Acid

Now, to an acid that is widely loved for its powerful exfoliation skills: Glycolic Acid. This AHA is derived from sugarcane and belongs to the alpha hydroxy acid family. This means it's all about the sloughing action of worn-out skin cells to give way for fresh, smooth skin underneath.

What It Does:

It basically works by dissolving the bonds that hold dead skin cells together to make them easily shed off.

By doing that, it encourages cell turnover and reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. Think of it as your at-home skin polisher.

Salicylic Acid

If you have ever had acne, then salicylic acid is something you may have encountered. This BHA, otherwise known as beta hydroxy acid, is a real-life superhero when it comes to cleaning the pores and reducing breakouts. What most people don't know is that it is derived from willow bark.

Works It Does:

Unlike AHAs, salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deep into pores and dissolve the gunk-causing blackheads and pimples that's basically excess oil and dead skin cells. It's also an anti-inflammatory, helping reduce redness and irritation.

Lactic Acid

Moving on to lactic acid, also a part of the AHA family but so much softer on the skin compared to glycolic acid. Lactic acid is sourced from milk, hence very good for performing mild exfoliation while keeping your skin hydrated.

What It Does:

Lactic acid works in the same way as glycolic acid, loosening up dead skin cells on the surface, but it's super gentle, so it is an excellent option for sensitive skin types.

The good thing about lactic acid is that it increases the skin's moisture content, too, acting like a two-in-one exfoliator and hydrator.

Mandelic Acid

This AHA is derived from almonds and is particularly great for acne-prone skin that's further sensitive.

What It Does:

Since mandelic acid is among the larger molecules of the rest of the AHAs, this would mean that its absorption into the skin is way slower, reducing the risk of irritation. Therefore, it will effectively treat acne and improve skin texture and reduce hyper-pigmentation without sensitivity wrought by stronger acids. Additionally, it stimulates collagen production, hence improving elasticity and lessening fine lines. Compared to other types of exfoliating acids, mandelic acid features gentler exfoliating properties, making it ideal for sensitive, acne-prone skin that needs more subtle treatments.

Ferulic Acid

Think of Ferulic Acid as your skin's own personal bodyguard. It doesn't strut around trying to steal the spotlight but stands quietly in the background, making sure everyone else-like your other superstar ingredients-is doing their job better and faster. Ferulic acid acts as a strong antioxidant that stabilizes and enhances the action of other antioxidants, especially Vitamin C and Vitamin E.

What It Does:

The main role of ferulic acid is to protect your skin from such environmental stressors as pollution and UV damage-those major contributors to aging. When combined with ascorbic acid, also known as Vitamin C, it enhances stability, which in turn makes Vitamin C even more effective at brightening skin and evening out your complexion. Give your vitamin C a double espresso shot-it's going to work harder, last longer, and fight off more free radicals.

Kojic Acid

Kojic acid, it's an acid that comes from fungi and it's usually made from Japanese sake or rice wine. It's now a staple in skincare products that treat dark spots and hyperpigmentation.

What It Does:

Kojic acid works by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme that catalyzes one of the early steps in melanin biosynthesis-the pigment that lends colour to your skin. When this enzyme is inhibited by kojic acid, it prevents the proliferation of excess melanin, which is responsible for dark spots, sun spots, and melasma.

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is one of those underdog skincare products sourced from grains like barley, wheat, and rye. This is a multi-tasker of an all-in-one type, providing anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and exfoliating benefits. Hence, it is always touted for treating conditions such as acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation.

What It Does:

Azelaic acid reduces keratin production, which can lead to acne clogging pores. It also exerts an antibacterial action against the bacteria Propionibacterium acnes responsible for acne. Besides that, it reduces redness and skin sensitivity; hence, it is also a good option for people with rosacea. Its mild peeling action helps to lighten post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation-the annoying darkening of a spot at the site of a healed pimple.

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Choosing the Right Acid for Your Skin Type

As you may see, each of them is powerful in its own way and has certain benefits for your skin, whether it is dry, oily, or sensitive. Here's a fast breakdown of which acids are best for you:

Skin Type	Recommended Acids	Benefits
Dry Skin	Hyaluronic Acid and Lactic Acid	Hyaluronic acid provides hydration, while lactic acid gently exfoliates the skin.
Oily Skin	Salicylic Acid and Glycolic Acid	Salicylic acid unclogs pores, and glycolic acid helps reduce oil production and resurfaces the skin.
Sensitive Skin	Lactic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, and Mandelic Acid	Lactic acid exfoliates gently, hyaluronic acid hydrates, and mandelic acid helps with acne and hyperpigmentation.
Aging Skin	Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) and Glycolic Acid	Vitamin C lightens and boosts collagen, while glycolic acid targets fine lines and promotes skin rejuvenation.
Acne-Prone Skin	Salicylic Acid and Mandelic Acid	Salicylic acid cleanses deep pores, and mandelic acid is gentle yet effective for sensitive skin with acne.

Final Thoughts

Now that you know what these acids can do for you, you might be tempted to slather them on thick. But don't! Overusing these skin acids does nothing but irritate your skin barrier.

The secret to making acids work for you is starting slow, incorporating one ingredient at a time, and always listening to your skin. But no matter what acid you're using, remember: wear sunscreen. Acids can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, and the last thing you want is to undo all your hard work by exposing your skin to UV damage

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Image Credits

Agustina R Street

Valeria Boltneva

Cyril Caiazzo

Felipe López Ruiz